Rained hard at 11 am, then bright winter sun. Walked to Magdalen college, which was open to public today only, but dogs were not allowed. So, I blew it, but it was a nice walk. Spent the day watching the Great British Bake-off and was inspired to bake some more julecaga, which was under baked. All in all, a day of near misses.
I leave here in 3 days, and will miss it.
 |
| Pubs are dog-friendly, While Magdalen College is not. Stick with the river. |
Jan 2
Too late for the story museum. Looked at books by Pullman, Garner, Carroll, and of course, Rowling. A fun dice game, with symbols for telling stories, based on the roll of the dice.
Too late for the 4:15 deadline at Christchurch picture gallery, so snuck into the Bodleian Divinity School. You need a ticket to get into any of the rooms, and they were sold out for today, so I made an advance purchase for tomorrow and on the strength of it got into the Divinity School, aka Hogwarts Infirmary (Sorcerers Stone) and ballroom (Goblet of Fire.) A docent was taking a tour through and told them a story about Ian McKellan coming through the Christopher Wren door, escaping from a talk he was giving in the Sheldonian. He was looking for a place to smoke (he’s a chain smoker) and she had to tell him he couldn’t smoke in the Bodleian. So she took him to Catte Street and his manager found them there and hustled him back to work.
Wandering the streets, waiting for 5:45 and entry to Christchurch for Choral Evensong (Cathedral Singers) The Nunc Dimitis was by Tallis, and it was perfect for the acoustics and the place.
 |
| i scream stratiatelli from covered market |
 |
| now a museum |
Jan 3
Last full day in Oxford, started with a walk along the Thames, where we had to skirt a tree downed in last night’s windstorm.
Another visit to the Bodleian, this time getting a chance to see Duke Humphrey’s Library. No pix allowed there, so I took a pic of Radcliffe Camera, another Library, through the Divinity School Windows. CC picture gallery not open today, so have to come back. ;)
He's carved in the doorway to the Schola Linguarum (Hebraicae et Graecae), and I'm assuming he's a famous philologist, but can't find out who. Someone before Elizabeth I. I thought he was Erasmus, but that's a different discipline.
A visit to the Botanic Gardens, where I got an extra minute from the young gent hustling us out; I had to take a look at the Cheshire Cat. Since much of Alice’s adventures are set in Oxford, I’m wondering if the cat is located in the gardens. Will have to check.
Two hours spent cleaning, preparatory to leaving tomorrow morning. I even washed the dogs. Poor sweeties.
And now I must sleep.
Jan 4
From Oxford cleanup to Macclesfield. Received a nice farewell email from my Oxford hosts:
We are home, dogs very happy, house immaculate, haven’t read your note yet….Thank you so much. Will review you of course. I hope you really enjoyed your stay and got to know Oxford Our thanks again and enjoy the next legs of your adventure
I really miss Lollipop. They were so very sweet, and added structure to my day (aka, got me outside.)
Spent the afternoon settling in. M took me shopping and then showed me the local wine store, called Portland Wines. Go figure. Kepler came in after dinner and roved a bit.
Sent the address to the Gang with this description: It’s part of a row of cottages that the mill workers would have lived in. The Peak District is to the east, Manchester 20 minutes north by train. The job is a sinecure: Kepler, the dog, is a 105-lb malamute, and is wary of strangers. (He was a rescue dog, found abandoned in Ireland. He spent 15 months in a local shelter before my host adopted him. He lives out back and someone else walks him. I just need to feed him twice a day. And that’s it. If it’s not too expensive, I’ll be taking bus/train rides to see Darcy’s house, John Rylands Library, etc. But I may just stay put and write: it’s pouring rain.
My host is an astronomer. How cool is that?! He’s going to be in DC attending a conference. He’s adorable.
  |
| The room is also an airbnb |
 |
| Welcoming the day With a last glimpse of the night Before clouds engulf |
Jan 6
Host's contact asks: Have you come all the way from the USA to look after Kepler?Answer: Yes and no! I've been traveling since May 2017, and plan to continue doing so until I get tired of it or some place grabs my fancy or the Sociopath in the White House gets us into another war. (The only good thing about Nov 2016 is that it galvanized me to quit my job and start living my dream.) The UK has a 6-month visitor limit, and I've been here since Sept with a brief visit back to the US to visit family and a doctor, and to pick up warmer clothes for the upcoming 3 months in Norway.
To V: There’s a wine shop just a few hundred yards away called Portland wines! They also have craft beers and craft gins. My host is a regular there, because they are close and open daily until 9 pm. I picked up this bottle of South African wine that was 20 percent off and that the manager recommended. It has an almost salty aftertaste which I didn’t like at first but which works really well with a very garlicky pasta dish.
To the Gang: got out and about today (check FB for the pix). Macclesfield is a pleasant town: nice brick houses, well maintained, at least where I saw them. The church was interesting: instead of a churchyard of tall tombstones, it had a courtyard slabbed with them. Can't recall what that method is called, but usually it's within the church, not in the yard.
The main claim to fame here is the silk mill, but surprisingly there are few stores selling fabric or silk products. In fact, the most ubiquitous industry seems to be hair styling: every block seemed to have a hairdressing establishment. I stopped in at a place that advertised Silver specials to see if I qualified as a Senior. I do, but I opted for the "model" fee instead. You get a reasonable cut and color for a reasonable price. I used to go to the Aveda student salon for the same reason.
I found the canal walk by asking a passer by. She had ringlet-ed red hair that glowed in the winter sun, and was hurrying down a lane by the side of the church. She walked me to the hill's edge, near the "108 steps" that go back to Domesday, and pointed out the route.
Then she offered to drive me there, and I accepted. She's a daycare worker, and her daughter is a creative writing major, working on a project about the characters in Macclesfield. I'd be interested to read it. Wikipedia says Macclesfield is the most uncultured, and the happiest, town in England. I wonder if there's a connection! She dropped me at the wharf on the Buxton road. We shook hands and I told her my name and she gave me hers: Liz. And that was that. I walked across to the Puss n Boots pub, crossed the road to the steps and down to the towpath.
The canal walk was pleasant, full of narrow boats and a few gents fishing for perch or pike (either/or, can't recall which) and on the way home I found a candy store that sold Kendall mints. I'm a happy camper. It's rather nice to have no real responsibilities.
Jan 7
I basically read all day. Finished one Alan Garner book and started another. Also wrote a blog entry. Had a huge toasted crumpet for tea (bought it yesterday as I explored.)
At this latitude (60 degrees), the days are very short and the sun low in the sky.
My nose is so numb,But it’s slowly thawing out
After a short walk
When I returned, Kepler howled. He sounds like a wolf.
I want to let him in, but my host has me nervous about it, and he suggested...insisted that I wait until Monday. If I didn’t wait and something happened, I’d be in trouble for not following instructions.
It’s hard to resist that handsome face, tho
Jan 8
Message to my host:
Kepler has had his walk, I’ve scooped the yard, and we’re hanging out.
(Note, Kepler's paw is about the size of my hand. He's a very large boy.)
Thanks for the introduction to E! She graciously drove me through
the Peaks to Lyme, and despite the cold and wind, it was a lovely day
for a walk. Yesterday I was a bit sad. I don't know if it was that I've been hoarding the antidepressants (since I wasn't able to get any more when I was in the States), or because of the change in latitude and resulting shorter days, or if it was solitude getting to me.
Today
was much better. I tutored at 7 am, and then Erin came by around 11
and took me for a drive through the Peaks to Lyme (scene of Pemberley in
the Colin Firth Pride and Prejudice). We walked in the back way, and
it was really cold and windy, so what with the hills and the wind, I got
my exercise in. So, I had fresh air and congenial company. (Erin is
one of Mat's friends. She is married to one of his colleagues. She grew
up in Corvallis, but hasn't lived in the PNW for 20 years. She was an
astronomer, but now is a composer and musician who teaches, records, and
gigs in the area.)
     |
| Pemberley...er Lyme, home of the Leighs for 600 years |
Today's the day M set for letting Kepler in, and that's good too. I'm doing this partly to enjoy the company of pets, and I hated leaving him outside in the cold, even though he has a huge fur coat and a nicer bed than I do (memory foam, custom-made for him). All is well. He rolled on his side, asking me to pet his belly, and now he's sleeping off to the side and letting fly the most hideous farts.
Why did I want to let him inside?!
Anyway, I'm feeling much more pleased with life: active and connected with my environment and community.
Jan 9
Jan 9
This was a day of business. First, I brought my
hard drive to the tech store to get it checked out. The hope was to
have data recovery before I had to re-write the text on Annie Oakley
(for the book). Then, I hung out in the library (very busy, 2 story)
until noon, when I had a cut and color. Blame X, who insists that I
need to color my hair to look younger and catch me a man. :) I got it
half price, because the apprentice was doing the work so I was a
"model." My new career? Pix below of the very strange "wind tunnel"
attachment that she used. The
whole experience was a hoot. They were talking about burglaries and
the "Macc" police in an accent that defied belief. Like Liverpudlian
(which is nearby) only more Scots. I needed subtitles.
   |
| In 40 years of Patronizing hair salons I’ve never seen this. |
Jan 10
Stayed inside ALL DAY!
and researched and wrote. Kepler came in after his walk and dozed,
but he was teasing when I tried to get him back outside for the night:
I had to go outside and call him and he came out and then ran right
back in before I could get to the door. Finally I got some food and
tossed it on the ground. Problem solved, although not good for his
training. Oh well.
I have a new audio book source, hoopladigital.com, and I have a book that P recommended waiting for me. So, time to do that, I guess.Jan 11
So, today my local tour guide took me to
Arbor Low, a neolithic site on a farm and B&B in the Peaks, south
and east of Macclesfield off the Buxton Rd. It was a pretty drive,
foggy and mysterious around the town valley and lonely and windswept in
the Peaks. The Peaks are a mix of heather covered hills (all brown
right now) and stone walled green fields.
The road is call Cat and Fiddle Road, named after the inn at the top. There were no pullouts for photo ops, so I took a few
through the window and otherwise just enjoyed the drive and the
company. Speed limit was 50, but my driver said it
was not possible to stay on the road at that speed, so we were sedate
about it, and people passed us. This is why I am so happy to be a passenger!
We parked
outside the farm in a small parking area, complete with sign/map and a
plastic composting box with a sign advertising fresh eggs, 1.20 BPS for
6. Inside were eggs rubber-banded into half-dozen bundles, with egg
carton top and bottom, but no side. We walked up the lane towards the
house. On a mossy stone wall sat a tin box with a small sign "please
leave donations if the collection box minder is away" My guess is that
the minder is never there. There were a few coins in the box, but we saw no one at the site. Who knows how long the coins had been there? A chicken scratched around in the enclosure on the other side of the wall. Source of the eggs?
 |
| the side of the barn |
The drive led past the farmhouse B&B to the right and the barns to the left. I had borrowed my
host's wellingtons, which was a good thing: to get to the site you walk
along the edge of a cow pasture. There were no cows, but plenty of
black squishy mud. The site itself was pretty cool: a huge deep ditch
with a grassy henge circling a flat area with large flat rocks spaced along the edge. It was
posited they had been toppled in medieval times to keep the pagan
spirits away. They are now embedded in the soil, with short thick turf surrounding them. Standing on the henge, one looks out over the site and
across the Peaks. Right now the rolling hills are covered with fields. I wonder if
they were forested when the site was constructed?
A few fields away is a
barrow site, with a round barrow on top of a rectangular one. The
bottom one is not obvious. Apparently the barrow came before the stone
circle.
We passed a bookstore cafe in the middle of nowhere, but had no time to go in. She had an online meeting at 2. And that was today. I spent the rest of the day writing and reading. Kepler was a little vocal earlier, but he's snoring now. I think the jazz on the TV calms him down.
Jan 12
At E's recommendation I had planned to go to a local pub (the Snow Goose) to listen to Friday night music, but Kepler seemed so happy and I felt comfy and lazy. So I stayed in and read some Cheshire folk tales from a book my host left lying around.
Yesterday I tutored and then walked downtown to retrieve my damaged hard drive. Apparently it will need to be opened in a dust free environment: mere software will not retrieve the data. Since I have re-written the Annie Oakley pages, I am in no rush to fix it, and will probably wait until I return to the States.
I decided to check out the local museums. It was pretty fascinating: the community had a thriving silk industry, which eventually moved to Patterson NJ, along with Macclesfield workers. Silk was also used in the war for parachutes and lightweight escape maps. The museum had old looms and some interactive places for the kids. I'm a kid, too, so I had fun with it.
Sadly, the town itself is no longer involved in the crafts of weaving or knitting, so I'm unable to buy silk yarn to knit. :)
There was also an impressive display of local art. I'm including a few here: A view of the town and countryside as I walked around, a painting of Shining Tor, where I was the other day, a piano loom, and an escape map.
Jan 12
At E's recommendation I had planned to go to a local pub (the Snow Goose) to listen to Friday night music, but Kepler seemed so happy and I felt comfy and lazy. So I stayed in and read some Cheshire folk tales from a book my host left lying around.
Yesterday I tutored and then walked downtown to retrieve my damaged hard drive. Apparently it will need to be opened in a dust free environment: mere software will not retrieve the data. Since I have re-written the Annie Oakley pages, I am in no rush to fix it, and will probably wait until I return to the States.
I decided to check out the local museums. It was pretty fascinating: the community had a thriving silk industry, which eventually moved to Patterson NJ, along with Macclesfield workers. Silk was also used in the war for parachutes and lightweight escape maps. The museum had old looms and some interactive places for the kids. I'm a kid, too, so I had fun with it.
Sadly, the town itself is no longer involved in the crafts of weaving or knitting, so I'm unable to buy silk yarn to knit. :)
There was also an impressive display of local art. I'm including a few here: A view of the town and countryside as I walked around, a painting of Shining Tor, where I was the other day, a piano loom, and an escape map.
Also, pix from walking around the town, more pix from the museum (a knitting loom, warp thread holders, silk thread), and more local art.
To the gang: Geeking out in Bakewell
So, after 3 hours of tutoring, I went downtown to catch a bus to Buxton and thence to Bakewell. Why? Because the route goes through the Peak district to the town where Elizabeth met Darcy again, and where Jane Austen revised Pride and Prejudice. And, it's also home of the Bakewell Tart, which I first saw on the Great British Bake-off. I did not manage my time well, so I didn't see Poole's Caverns, which once had neolithic humans occupying them. E-, there's a virtual tour on their web page with 360 degree pix. They are open 10-4 in the winter, and I was shivering at the bus stop at Chatsworth when they closed.
Actually, it wasn't my time management that was at fault: the buses were messed up. The one from Buxton to Bakewell was 24 minutes late. The one from Bakewell to Chatsworth almost 45 minutes late, the return bus, almost an hour late. The return to Buxton ditto. At Chatsworth my phone ran out of juice, so I had to keep asking people what time it was. When I finally reached Buxton, and checked the bus schedule, I guessed I had missed the last bus back to Macclesfield. I saw a short balding gent with multiple rings in his ears and a blue hoodie walking past and asked him the time. He told me and offered me a chip from the paper in his hands. I took one, and it was excellent: G-, you'd have loved it. It was covered in malt vinegar. I asked him where I could hook up to some WiFi and maybe call a cab, and he indicated the pub across the way. So, I went there and plugged in and sent APBs to the folks in Macclesfield who were my backup. I had decided I should stay in Buxton for the night and let the locals feed Kepler. But then my chip-eating hero peeked his head around the pillar by which I was sitting and asked me if I'd like a ride to Macclesfield. I pondered it a bit, and decided to say yes. He went and got his van from his girlfriend's house, and I got a beer. I also sent a message to P and G, asking them to call out the army if I didn't get back in touch after an hour or so.
I decided to trust my gut: he seemed like a good guy. And he was. He's from Chichester, cares for developmentally disabled adults, has 2 kids from a failed marriage, makes electric guitars, is a photographer and has a tool that predicts when the Northern Lights will show. You can find out a lot about a person in a half hour drive.
Tomorrow I go to Glasgow. I'll have to come back: this has been a revelation, and I haven't seen Manchester at all.
I'm sending some pix. Jane Austen's room at the Rutland Arms (corner window on left, 1st floor British style), a 9th century Norse cross, an incomprehensible bit of public behavior (locks on bridge railings: filling both sides), Chatsworth hiding behind walls, Scrivener's Books and Binding in Buxton, complete w/ a snakes and ladders game and view of Bakewell from All Soul's parish church, up above the Rutland Arms.
I’ll be leaving at 3 pm tomorrow (train leaves at 4). Do you want me to feed Kepler his dinner before I leave?
I forgot to scoop on Friday, but did scoop Mon and Wed, so it should be fine. I’ve watered the plants, too.
Kepler was trying to climb into my lap, so I put him outside. I’m pleased he likes me, but don’t want to mess up his training.
He’s really an excellent dog! Thanks for providing such a lovely housesit!
There's a twitter feud going on about the buses: apparently there's a very intrusive/annoying announcement that comes on at each stop...AFTER the bus has resumed travel.... warning that "the bus is about to move"
https://www.bleedingcool.com/
My issue was outlined on the National Rail Enquiries site thusly:
As part of the Great North Rail Project, Network Rail is upgrading the railway between Preston and Blackpool. This is to deliver cleaner, quieter and more reliable journeys. Further information can be found here. Until Sunday 28 January: There will be NO trains between Preston and Blackpool South / Blackpool North. Rail replacement buses will run every 15 minutes between Preston and Blackpool North, with some buses running direct.
Ah, public transport!
Jan 14
To V:
Yes, I missed Manchester altogether. Arrived late in Glasgow to downpour. I may have developed a cold sitting at windy stops yesterday, and British railways provided more. The train officials put me on a bus out of Manchester which added an hour to the trip. Something about engineering on the line, but I still don’t get what happened.
I’m here for a week tending to a cat and then zipping south to catch a plane to Oslo on Jan 22.
Re Rutland..There’s a big calligraphed poster about Jane, and the hotel clerk smiled upon my enthusiasm, but I wouldn’t say it’s overrun by Janeites. Bakewell is a nice town for tourism though. Quaint, a river walk, lots of pubs and pastry shops, and some amazing old buildings.
Going to bed. Posting the only two pix from today: one of a lovely Macclesfield pub sign, one of the high ceiling in my room.
Btw, EK fell and broke her hip: surgery is in her future. At age 102
Jan 15
First full day: a brief sunlit break on a jaunt to Tapa Bakery
E is well it seems. Surgery done, successful they think. EB was en route, so a friend stayed with her, and this is the report:
She’s back in her room and talking a mile a minute about
growing up on the farm, she’s convinced we all grew up on the —doctors,
nurses, me
I love that woman
Centenarian
Falls, breaks her hip and survives
Surgery. RELIEF!
I’m in this flat for a week. May never leave, other than to visit the Rennie Mackintosh museum and get some bread: it’s cold and rainy and I’m pretty tired after 2 days of sitting at cold windy bus stops. (Never trust British public transport.)Falls, breaks her hip and survives
Surgery. RELIEF!
Then again, I have 3 months of rural solitude ahead of me, so maybe I should make a push to explore while I can. It looks like I at least need to tour the Mackintosh buildings as well as the museum. We shall see.
Meanwhile, take a look at the details in this flat! I wish L could get her hands on it! although the hard wood floors and paint job are pretty nice. When the shades in the living room are closed they match the walls, so it looks like a paneled room.
And I love that the washing dries on bars operated by a pulley in the kitchen. The ceilings are really high...maybe 12 feet?
I believe the area is called The Drives. It’s in Denistoun near the Belgrove train station. The owner is a vegan Frenchwoman, so all her cafe recommendations have that slant. (Turns out, Glasgow is a haven for vegans. Who knew?) I think she’s an artist, or at any rate she has a definite interest in art and also in pottery and cool rocks, all of which are scattered about the flat.
The dogs are boarding, so my pet duties are minimal.
Aaaargh!
My various passwords got effed up after I did an iPhone upgrade. Recovery requires access to my iPhone. I don’t have access to my iPhone. So, in the meantime, I’m using a new email: refgoddess1@gmail.com
when I write from my laptop. So far, my iPhone and iPad log in properly. G let me use his phone number for some of this work.
Today’s news:
After tutoring, I discovered it was snowing...
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| Some days it’s better To just stay inside and sit Underneath the cat. |
Snow slanting downward,
Melting onto window panes,
Turning into light.
Jan 17
To MS:
I'm holed up in a really fabulous apartment in Glasgow. The streets are
slippery and icy, and I just don't want to try to navigate. I don't
have to, after all. I keep telling myself that exploration is not a
requirement, but I do feel a bit sheepish spending all the travel money
to come here and then not actually check out the city. I have 4 more
days, though. And another fall is just not an option.
For the last 48 hours I've been fussing with password problems. I
upgraded my iphone and then all hell broke loose. The real problem is
that all my backup involves access to my iphone text option, and I don't
have that. But a few minutes ago, everything got fixed for that. I'm
still having problems with my Apple ID. They won't send instructions until Jan 29. Don't know why.
Also
for the last 48 hours I've been worrying about EK. But hopefully things are
resolving. I actually checked with the woman who is at the Norway house
right now to see if she could extend her time so I could go to CA and
sit with Esther during this difficult time. But she can't, so I won't.
I really hate being so far away. You guys be well. Now. I mean itto the gang:
I tutored at 7 am and then around
noon decided that I should take advantage of the sunshine and walk
downtown. It's about a 40-minute walk to the art museum.
The
minute I stepped outside, the sun slid behind cloud cover and rain
started pouring down. The sidewalk was slippery, and I just turned
right around and came back to the flat. I spent the rest of the day
researching the next person (MLK). The cat has been sitting with me:
this is a very wide chair, quite comfy. I'm logged in for another hour
of tutoring: so far no nibbles. Jan 18: In which there is much walking
I walked downtown past Tennent Brewery and through the
University of Strathclyde to GMOMA, The Lighthouse, and the Mitchell
Library (it's architecture and archives put it in the museum category) Had some average pulled pork and MacnCheese for dinner (what
was I thinking? In Scotland?! I should have gone for the bubble and squeak.) Took the train back. The sidewalks were icy by my flat, but
fine the rest of the way. I was dithering on the sidewalk, and a
passerby stopped talking on his cell to offer me a hand to the street,
which was clear. The Glaswegians are a pleasant bunch. The city
reminds me of Portland 30 years ago, a mix of old buildings and new,
very walk-able, lots of neighborhoods. I didn’t make it down to the River
Clyde.
Very tired.
Pix below: light on the bicycle rank...a nicely detailed fence and doorway...a cone hat on Prometheus, by steps to the Strathclyde University sculpture garden(also saw one on the statue outside the GMOMA...don't know if it's a Thing or coincidence)...steps of Rottenrow Gardens...sculpture in honor of maternity (Gardens are site of old maternity hospital)....GMOMA gallery: building was first a stately home, later a library. This wing was a reading room, stacks, and circulation area.....stained glass in the stairwell...skylight...palm print of Marcel Duchamp, used to study mental health (also had Aldous Huxley, Antoine de St Exupery, Nijinsky, Andre Breton, etc)...Andy Goldsworthy 6 clay snowballs
Jan 19
And
then I came out into a snowstorm. I had initially planned to walk to city center and explore some other sites. Instead, the door guard called me a taxi. I got back home and thought,
how do I get to the concert? Duh. Taxi of course. Cost what the
ticket cost me!
To the gang:
Made
it to the Celtic Connections concert: an Irish-Iranian band opened.
Vicki, they were a cross between the Brothers of the Baladi and Ad
Vielle...I bought their CD.
Then a “project” called Secret North.
Celtic fusion is the best description. From left to right, Celtic
Harp, pipes (small pipes and Irish whistle), electric fiddle, accordion,
Swedish mandolin, Norwegian stand up bass. 6 musicians got together in a
house in Fife last summer, spent a week pulling together their
individual compositions & another week touring and performing. This
was a reunion. It was wonderful.
  |
| All I can say is Wow. Now that’s an opener. The beer money’s spent. |
And I almost
didn’t go after slipping and sliding to the People’s Palace (a Glasgow
history museum on the River Clyde in the middle of the Green).
 |
| amazing shower bath |
 |
| painting of a shop assistant. love the hat |
Once I
got there I enjoyed it and learned about steamies (the precursor to the
launderette, complete with washboard and sink and boiler and wringer.). I
also discovered that my flat is in what used to be a better class tenement
with a “wally close," a tiled entry way with deco designs.
 |
| It starts raining snow So I take a taxi home. The world is frosted |
Jan 20
Tutored for three hours. Took a taxi to Kelvingrove
Museum for the Mackintosh exhibit and free organ recital. (The latter
was a bit odd: Scott Joplin, the Bangles, As Time Goes By...and a reverberate Bach fugue.) I had hoped to walk to University of Glasgow and
the Hunterian, but the sidewalks outside of the city Centre were sheets
of ice. So, I’ll have to explore tony West Side next time. Took
another taxi to Willow Tea Room (designed by Mackintosh.) Scottish
rarebit, bacon, arugula salad.
I was able to get
the last ticket to the Tannahill Weaver’s 50th anniversary concert. It
was a blast, and they were charming and clearly delighted to still be
gigging. I couldn’t understand most of the patter, but my neighbors
translated. Apparently Glaswegians are known for a unique turn of
phrase. I thought of Dad: there were 5 (FIVE) bagpipes, and at one
time they each took a “break” before raising the roof by playing
together. He’d have loved it. I also was reminded of going to hear The
Cure: again I was the only person in the audience to not know all the
lyrics.
Before the concert I had some time to kill,
so I stopped by the Pot Still, a tiny whisky bar with over 300 malt
liquors and a knowledgeable staff. It was nice.
Jan 21
Snowy ride through the highlands, just rainy here in London. Getting up at 3:30, so this is just a quick checkin. Tomorrow, Norway!
Jan 22
Up at 3:30. V got R up 10 minutes later, so I got to say goodbye to both of them. Uber to Paddington, Heathrow Express to Terminal 2. Bag weighed in at 22.6 KG. whew!
To P:
At Oslo airport, waiting for bus: It’s very easy to find, once you know what you’re looking for. Taxis are next to the building, buses further out. Free WiFi in the airport
Although I sent a long
message to M about my reservations about the woman who was here
before me, really I think she's fine. I really appreciate that she
was conscientious about showing me everything and making sure I feel
comfortable here, and we have had a nice day snowshoeing, shoveling, and
shopping. ;)
I'm a little concerned about tomorrow, as it
is still snowing hard and the road out of our little rural community
will be snow packed. But the tires are studded, and the main roads will
be clear because this is Norway, they know how to handle snow here.
And, once I drop them off in Gjovik, I'll pick up enough food to last
for a few weeks, so I don't need to drive in this stuff. Apparently it
all melts away in March, so I'll have a month to explore safely.
Hedalen Kirche, where Grandma was baptised, is a hour and a half drive
away, and Lillehammer is only an hour away, up the fjord. If I have the
nerve, I'll rent a bobsled and go down the Olympic run. Not.
Well....we'll see. I gather that some world championship skiing will be
held there this winter, so I may take the bus in (to avoid parking and
driving in a crazy atmosphere).
But, I'll be so happy just
being in this house. I love the wood stove, you can see the flames
through the curved glass door. And the cats are very low key. It's
going to be an easy gig, I think.
At least here the roads
are wide enough for two cars and the driving is on the right side. But,
the signs are coated with blown snow from the road clearers, so I was
never quite sure where I was or what the speed limit was, and I'd been
left strict instructions about speeding: the tickets are hundreds of
Euros.
Before I came home I stopped by Kiwi, the chain that
was closest to my route, and stocked up on fish for the cats and cheese
and chocolate for myself. There's a small supermarket in nearby
Landasbygda, but I used up all my cash yesterday when the electricity
was out and they couldn't use my card. It was actually rather amusing. I
used my cell phone flashlight to locate items. When we got to the
register, one girl started going through the packages, calling out the
product information. The other went around the shelves with HER
flashlight, calling back prices which the first girl then wrote down in a
a long column of very large round numbers. Then she totaled it up, and
I made it with 50 NOK to spare.
Food is not cheap though.
Today I roamed around the store, trying to figure out what everything was. I got some kjottkokker: I know that! And some rice and apples which were obvious. But there may be some surprises in my future. The Gjetost was white, for example.
I've spent the rest of the day working on the book. The snow has come down again, filling up the deck that I shoveled when I got home. And the electricity has gone out several times today, just for short spurts, but still. The cats seem okay, and the fire is burning merrily (in fact, it's a little too hot).
Jan 25
Handoff notes:
You wanted to hear about the handoff, but I'm
assuming M gave you the details. She seems very conscientious and
detail oriented! And that was good for me, although it's not my
preferred learning style. She is sooo precise about showing the right
way to do things. I learn better with hands on and correcting mistakes.
Jan 21
Snowy ride through the highlands, just rainy here in London. Getting up at 3:30, so this is just a quick checkin. Tomorrow, Norway!
  |
| Bye bye, River Clyde. I barely knew ya! |
Up at 3:30. V got R up 10 minutes later, so I got to say goodbye to both of them. Uber to Paddington, Heathrow Express to Terminal 2. Bag weighed in at 22.6 KG. whew!
To P:
At Oslo airport, waiting for bus: It’s very easy to find, once you know what you’re looking for. Taxis are next to the building, buses further out. Free WiFi in the airport
Pretty drive, if a bit heart-stopping along the cliff-edge. Met a cellist who teaches at Gjoevik music school: she tells me the orchestra is playing Peter and the Wolf in March and I could perhaps rent an instrument.
To the gang: Surrounded by snow...I
have a horrible headache, probably a combination of getting up at 3:30
and schlepping heavy luggage. I’m safe at my Norway home and will write
more later. The pic is part of the view out my window.
 |
| So much white stuff here: I feel like I’ve never seen Snow before today. |
Jan 23
So, when it snows nonstop, the electricity goes out
and the internet goes down. This means, don't worry if you don't hear
from me for a day or so! There's a renter in the downstairs apartment,
so I'm not all alone.
It's magical. I feel like I've
never truly experienced snow before. Everything is white on white on
white. The branches are so coated with snow they don't show as black or
dark green: they show frosty where they aren't totally covered up.
The short ones look like trolls. The birches look like huge feathery
fans. It's so very beautiful. |
| My first snowshoe lesson. M lends me her Honecker hat |
Jan 24
I am now the Keeper of the Cats, the Tender of the Fire, the Shoveler of the Snow, the Driver of the Car.
There
were a few stars and a chilly pink and gold sunrise as we got ready to
take Meg and her husband to the Gjovik bus station. It had snowed 20 cm
in the night, but the roads were reasonably clear. Of course, when we
did the changeover at the station, I had problems with the standard
transmission and Reine came over to help. "You know it's not an
automatic?" he said. Yes. I know.  |
| Fire and Ice |
Today I roamed around the store, trying to figure out what everything was. I got some kjottkokker: I know that! And some rice and apples which were obvious. But there may be some surprises in my future. The Gjetost was white, for example.
I've spent the rest of the day working on the book. The snow has come down again, filling up the deck that I shoveled when I got home. And the electricity has gone out several times today, just for short spurts, but still. The cats seem okay, and the fire is burning merrily (in fact, it's a little too hot).
Jan 25
Handoff notes:
You wanted to hear about the handoff, but I'm
assuming M gave you the details. She seems very conscientious and
detail oriented! And that was good for me, although it's not my
preferred learning style. She is sooo precise about showing the right
way to do things. I learn better with hands on and correcting mistakes.
 |
| A final snuggle |
That being said, the house seems to be in good order, and the
cats very happy. My room was nicely prepared and dinner was very good
(she used your dried tomatoes for the pasta sauce.)
There was a small communication break down: I'd sent travel details
but did not message her from the airport, and she was waiting to hear
from me. When I reached the bus station, I sent an email, but she wanted
a text. My texting service did not have phone capability, so
eventually I went to the tourist office and borrowed their phone.
(Quite a sweet young man.) By then they were on their way. Her husband
answered the phone was confused because apparently the phone I was
borrowing belonged to someone named Jasmine?!
Anyway, it
was no big deal, and was really the only hitch in the handoff!
Apparently there's a spot on the rug, and some of the plants are in need
of TLC. That's not my forte (all I ever do is water and pray), but
I'll check the soil and keep them damp but not soaking. Meg says she's
told you about all that. And the spot seems minimal, just a few darkish
streaks.
I had some
problems starting the woodstove, but have discovered the ax in the wood
shed and, now that I can make little stuff, it's fine. Likewise, it
took me a bit to get re-used to standard transmission and driving on the
right side.
Two food questions: M said that the food (other than tomatoes) is off limits, but the oils and
spices can be used. Correct? And, there is no toaster? (I can grill
in the oven, no problem.)
Should I clean the
food dryer? I don't plan to use it, but the summer folks might want
to. And, there's a baking sheet with some sort of parchment on it:
does that stay? Does it get cleaned? It's new to me.
And
that's all the fussy stuff. Your place is so comfortable and feels
like home to me! I enjoyed shopping and recognizing some of the
"traditional" foods. I bought some lefse and will see if it is as good
as mine. ;)
To PDX friend:
I
wasted a sunny day by sitting around and listening to two Alan Garner
audio books. They were set in the Macclesfield area, where I lived a few weeks ago and were a lovely discovery. I had first read his work when I was in my teens, and he's still writing! I love it. But it was stupid to listen today, when I have plenty of time to do so during the upcoming snowstorms. Oh well, I usually do like to spend my first few days in a place getting to know the house and pets. That's my excuse, at any rate.
Hard to believe I've been doing this for close to 9
months, with 3 more to go in the land of my roots. The time seems to
have just floated along. audio books. They were set in the Macclesfield area, where I lived a few weeks ago and were a lovely discovery. I had first read his work when I was in my teens, and he's still writing! I love it. But it was stupid to listen today, when I have plenty of time to do so during the upcoming snowstorms. Oh well, I usually do like to spend my first few days in a place getting to know the house and pets. That's my excuse, at any rate.
- Tutored and watched the sunrise.
- Finished two books and wrote another spread for the Famous Faces Book.
- The cats are being cuddly.
- The sun is starting to rise earlier and today it was toasty warm, but snow is back in the forecast.
- The Hero of Buxton shared an app for forecasting Aurora’s. Right now probability is 4 %. And big cloud cover. So, never mind!
- And that’s it.
   |
First breakfast sunrise,
Just me, clouds, cats, and coffee.Will the snows return? |
Snowballs!
 |
| A cloud on the lake Rising in white misty wisps Through slender dark firs |
Friday and Saturday notes:
Went for a walk and saw giant snowballs impaled in the trees.
Researched, read, wrote book reviews for GoodReads, did laundry.
Watched the sun set at 4:30.
Today’s breakfast was lefse from store. Not bad at all. I’ve been a little insomniac and the short days make it a little difficult to know when it’s bedtime and time to get up!
Fortunately, it doesn’t matter.
The princess ate her fish today! May have been a response to the yowling of the cat in Ina’s flat...don’t know where that came from. And now it's time to bask.
   |
| Cold white tinged with blue Made grey by selective sight And modern filters |
10 am: It's snowed about 3 inches since last night, and shows no sign of stopping. I'll let you know what the final tally is. But it's deep enough that snow shoes are necessary off road. I sank about 6 inches, and there was a lot more underneath.
  |
| It’s snowing again, Obscuring views, coating limbs. I bring in more wood. #lazySunday |
 |
| A snowy day ends With warmth behind icy lace. It chills to white quartz. |
just checking in about recycling. It appears that tomorrow is plastics, so I put the bag out by the post boxes, as one of your neighbors told me to. I also finally filled the pail with ashes, and those went in a compost bag and in the bin that seemed to be holding compost. Anything else I have to worry about? FYI, I don't see much by way of cleaning products for the bathroom, so when the snow lets up I'll go get some more. Also, I think I forgot to save the receipt for the fish, so I'll have to figure that out. I got 8 containers, thinking that would give me a little over a month's worth: one container for 4 days.
    |
| Under attack by the black and white Lion of Landasbygda! |
Jan 29: a day of letters
To a Gemini sister:
Having just contaminated my vegan hosts' kitchen with
bacon and eggy french toast, I decided it was time to talk with you! I
have been slowly reading In the Palace of the Snow Queen. It's
one of those books that can be absorbed in bits and pieces, as she
travels about, so I pick it up when I want to feel chilly and Nordic. I
like that she doesn't moan so much about the reason she's out their
traveling. Instead, she talks about fascinating things. So far she's
too inflexible about her itinerary, I feel, to be a true nomad, but I'm
enjoying her journey nonetheless. Thanks so much for sending it my
way. It really does fit in with my thoughts as I figure out why I am
here. If I didn't thank you in a more timely fashion (and I suspect I
did not), I'm thanking you now..
I had imagined this would be the most contemplative part of my journey, and so it is proving to be. But I am also having to finish up the research and writing for the book. I asked them to wait until this month to send the advance, so I could avoid tax complications. It should be in my account in the next few days, which will be perfect: I am down to $3000 and don't want to dig into the savings (about $6 thousand). The advance is 5000 BPS, which translates to $7078 USD. I have to wait another year before I can go after the IRA funds and NM pension funds, which will fund me through my 61st birthday I hope. And then I have to decide between hounding my cousins for the return of the loan, or going into my PERS income.
Financially I'm at the coasting part of my trip: all the real travel expenses have been paid, so my only cost is food, insurance, and phone plan. And the odd touristy thing. But that's covered by my meager tutoring income. In May I start my volunteer gig at Ghost Ranch, so I won't even have to pay for food at that point. So as long as I remain healthy, I can live this cheap and endlessly fascinating lifestyle for several years.
To E in Macclesfield
I hope your gigs are going well. I'm in Norway now, writing, reading, and cuddling with the cats. Occasionally putting my toes into that white stuff out there, but I have until then end of April to explore the place, so feeding the fire is currently more important than feeding my traveller's soul.
I hope your gigs are going well. I'm in Norway now, writing, reading, and cuddling with the cats. Occasionally putting my toes into that white stuff out there, but I have until then end of April to explore the place, so feeding the fire is currently more important than feeding my traveller's soul.
I'm also apparently a little
homesick: I'm listening to the Portland Oregon classical station.
Yesterday they played a bunch of Bach and Vivaldi and Debussey and the
Moldau and some Elizabethan songs (which were perfect because I was
writing about Shakespeare!). Anyway, I remembered that you had said
something about sharing some of my favorite classical music. In a lot
of ways, listening to the station
will fit the bill. The other day they even played Brahms (I got
through a years' worth of check balancing back in the day, listening to
all 4 off his symphonies with Beethoven's 5th to round it out.)
That
being said, i thought I should share Morten Lauridsen with you if you
don't know him already: he writes the most luscious choral music ever. O
Magnum Mysterium is my favorite to sing (because he loves the altos in
it), but Sure on this Shining Night has such beautiful lyrics. The
music pulls them through you as you sing.
I also like what he does with Ubi Caritas (one of my favorite chants.)
Face it, I just like him. ;)
On another note, I was wondering if the picture you took of me at the stones came out. I'd love a copy. Okay, time to put another log on the fire and shovel some snow ahead of the next dump. Be well!
|
Man his purr is loud. And he drools. He’s adorable. So’s Lilly, but she’s playing hard to get.
So, I was going to sweep a bit, but all I see is the Hoover. Would rather not offend the cats. Option?
Deck is cleared in time for the next dump: some car activity yesterday, but not bad.
And that’s the news from Norway. Some day I’ll escape the blandishments of this home and explore.
To the Gang:
I didn’t sleep well and was up at 7:30 to tutor, so I’m going to bed early.
You can’t see the tiny snow sand, but it was pouring snow, so I curtailed my walk and sat under a cat.
Jeez it’s great to have the Apple ID problem fixed. That incessant pop up whining was getting to me. Thanks be to G, who let me use his phone for the texted codes.
‘‘Twas a perfect day to sit around and read. I tried to make snow candy and was minimally successful. Tomorrow maybe I’ll try ice cream.
Today it was Lilly climbing all over me before she settled. I was well and truly trapped, but when I moved the least little bit, reaching for the phone, she flounced off.
Cats.
To M:
You’re so funny! As if planning has anything to do with my choice of
house sits. It’s totally random. I am happy to be an hour’s drive from
Heddalen: there’s an old Stave church where my Grandma was baptized,
so I must visit!
Yes, I’m 3/4 Norwegian. 100% Minnesotan. 2.7 % Neanderthal. :)
Am
reading a book about the North, especially Sami culture. She mentions
the music, so of course I had to look it up. If you want to hear some
powerful and ethereal music, search YouTube for Sami joik or Gula Gula
Boine.
Jan 30
I found myself talking burque~na to the cats: “you’re all cute, huh?” https://youtu.be/N5Yy0iWVC00. Must be missing home.
 |
| Reportedly her favorite pose |
 |
Looking for coffee
I see where the action is. I prefer the couch |
   |
| Whites from blue to pink With purple stripes and gold dots: A sunrise palette |
MS is in the hospital with
water pockets in his lungs that are causing him great pain. He & D thought it
was a pulled muscle. The doctors are talking guardedly about cancer, which
has D very scared. Me too. It's a complicated procedure to remove the water
and test it. I wish my friends
would stop having surgeries. First SC, then E, and now D and MS. I
mean, I wish they would stop NEEDING surgeries. I'm glad the option exists for the problems. On the plus side, E is returning home this week.
Meg, the previous sitter, took a pic of Leo and me that I have not
shared because I look like the obesity poster child. So this morning (it
only took me a week) I reinstated the My Fitness Pal app and then I
took advantage of the sunny day and walked to the little store.
This is
officially the town of LandÃ¥sbygda but it’s really a series of
clustered houses and farms all gathered around a long lake in the
mountains, with no more than 5 houses per cluster. The store is half a
mile up the road and the whole errand took an hour and a half. Part of
that was shopping, and part reattaching the spikes to my boots, which
were too big for them. I also and some minor stress asthma walking up
the long hill in below zero temps. Clearly, I do need to lose weight.
Here’s the temp an hour or so after sunset.
I think these look like antlers in velvet
Snow on telephone wires: these will not be cut out! Loved the stripy sky.
Jan 31
Insomniac, so I got up early to continue reading about Lapland.
 |
| Because I can’t sleep They are sure it’s breakfast time. Unsettled routine. |
Then I started looking up some of the references: Borg Mensch, photographer of the Sami and Kiruna, and Emilie Demant Hatt, painter. In the process, I came across a lovely tree painting, all fuzzy branching leaves. While not snowy, like mine, the feeling was the same.
That which you find when
You’re looking for something else:
Unexpected wow.
#betterthanseredipity
I got some popcorn,You’re looking for something else:
Unexpected wow.
#betterthanseredipity
But snow storms wreak havoc with
Electricity.
 |
It has lit’rally
Snowed without ceasing today.I am so gobsmacked. |
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