Monday, July 8, 2019

Oh Canada!

Because of a recent border crossing experience, I am rethinking my nomadic lifestyle. Initially, I posted some details to Facebook, along with a rather hideous PTSD selfie. Now that I've had time to think it through, and I'm no longer weeping, I'm ready to provide a more coherent account. However. I am including some of the FB discussions at the end, because they have guided my thinking on this situation.

On Saturday, July 7, I flew into Winnipeg, was flagged at Customs and, after an intense inquisition, was told that I was not welcome in Canada. Housesitting (even unpaid) is considered to be a job, and as such must go to Canadian citizens. I was accused of lying (because I said I was visiting friends which is what most of us nomads say.) I was told I could be fined and imprisoned. They made me book a next-day return to the States and confiscated my passport and ticket for the duration of my stay. My host was very kind about it, fortunately. I never did get to meet her, but she is talking about connecting when they come to Utah for camping and hiking.

The logistics were interesting. I've never been on the receiving end of a police interview. There were always two present. They were tall men, and they were dressed in black, seemingly bullet-proof, gear.  They wore black plastic gloves (for searching?) They started out informing me that entry into a country was not a right, but a privilege. They questioned me regarding my plans, my reasons for visiting Canada, and my relationship to my hosts. They did not allow me to contact my host, who was there to pick me up. They took my phone. They questioned my integrity, told me I was giving them attitude (because I asked what was going on and why), and lectured me. They pulled out a huge tome and made me read the laws I was violating.


After making it clear that I was completely vulnerable and at risk, they backed off the threats.
I was  to be allowed to sleep at a hotel instead of on the airport floors. I was offered water and  handed Kleenex. The main inquisitor asked about my dog (not sure how that came up.) I started weeping, thinking of her loss, of what had led me to this place, sans husband, job, house, or pets.  I was mourning the loss of my newfound lifestyle.  He said,  "You can still travel, you can house sit in the States," not realizing that it's the global community that is at stake, and that it's the contempt and suspicion of my life choices that hurts.  He said, "It sounds like you've had a rough time."  Well, yes, and you're not helping I thought, but I couldn't look at him.  I was so humiliated that I was sharing my vulnerabilities with this professional intimidator.  I took the Kleenex and stumbled around my luggage, putting things away and shrugging on the heavy pack.  He gave me paperwork regarding my passport and next steps, showed me out the door by baggage claim, showed me the phone I'd be using to connect with Border Patrol the next day, and pointed out the information desk that would help me find a hotel.

When I returned the next morning, I was escorted by two different Border Police through the entire boarding process. In a way, that was nice, though it was of course public humiliation. But I wasn't frogmarched or cuffed, and I got through very quickly, bypassing some really amazing lines. At least 300 cadets were flying out at the same time.

Officially I "withdrew my application" to enter the country. I was not forbidden to return: I am welcome as a tourist.  Unofficially...I don't know.

It was traumatic, and I'm questioning my whole house-sitting nomadic lifestyle. Trusted Housesitters basically says they are just a platform for connection, and that it's up to us to familiarize ourselves with the rules of the various countries. But none of the countries want undocumented workers, and that's what the border goons consider us to be. I've been entering countries under the pleasant fiction that I'm part of a global community of people who love animals, not that I'm doing a job. But that's disingenuous of me. I have been "lying" about the housesits, because I had heard stories about other people having border problems, but I'm not a good liar, and I fell apart under intense scrutiny. So now I have to figure out: is it possible to get paperwork that will let me into England as a volunteer petsitter? What about other countries? Forget Canada; the gendarmes told me that there was no way the government would ever grant permission for such a thing: those "jobs" have to go to Canadian citizens. Never mind that no one local wants to do this for free, and that the only losers here are the hosts, the travel business, and the local economy (which are losing out on my travel dollars.)

Many of the friends who read my Facebook post blame Trump's alienation of the rest of the world, but I think the issue is more complex than that. Yes, Americans are no longer exempt from harassment (if we ever were), but the unconventional, the indigent, the "other" is suspect all around the world. Everyone who travels has a border story. And, ever since I stopped working and living in one place, I've been treated with contempt by officialdom of all sorts. Renting is a problem, ditto health insurance, ditto setting up bank accounts. The list of places that no longer welcome me is a long one.  The discrimination is breathtaking, and I'm not a refugee, drug dealer, prostitute, or even welfare recipient.  But that's how I am now perceived.  Instead of seeing me as a respectable middle class white lady, honorably retired and an upstanding member of the community, I am seen as an indigent freeloader with suspicious behaviors.  The fact that I've moved 8 times since leaving Portland is a huge red flag.  My long past counts for nothing: 30+ years in the same town, 20+ years of home ownership, 27 years employed by the same business...I was inert and safe.  No longer.  I own very little, I am unemployed, and the border cop referred to me as a "free spirit...."  It was not a compliment.

Constant travel takes me past the red flag and into International Criminal standing.  The border cops quizzed me about my finances, my work history, and my housing situation. Learning that I don't own a house and that I live with a friend, they said, "There's no indication you have any reason to return (to the States)." So, lack of house ownership is also a sign of unsavoriness.  I am indignant about this, all the while realizing that my very indignation is a symptom of my past years of privilege.  When I have perspective, I can only be grateful that I do have a safe home to which I can return to lick my wounds, and that I have sufficient funds to get me there.  The fact that I want to escape the dying throes of my country is beside the point.  The refugees at the border can tell me that I have nothing to complain about, either in my treatment or in my situation.

I've spent some time mourning my lost lifestyle: I've really loved doing this, making friends around the world, meeting amazing animals, experiencing community, exploring out of the way places. It's been a little over 2 years, though, and I've also been getting quite lonely and a little aimless. This year I've been logging a lot of miles, crisscrossing the States, flying to London, Canada, Florida, Portland. It gets wearing. I need a focus.

So, I made a lot of lemonade from the Winnipeg Debacle. Or perhaps that's just a way of spinning a completely horrible experience.  But, here are the pluses:
  1. There were 7 wildfires in Manitoba, and the haze over the city was really untenable. 
  2. I needed to return to ABQ to take care of medical stuff: refilling prescriptions, checking on my ankle, checking on my thyroid. 
  3. I miss hanging with my New Mexico tribe.
  4. I feel much love and support.
  5. I think I may have unconsciously flunked the border interview because I need to change what I'm doing. This is a wakeup call for me, whatever the cause.
But, I'll be off again in a week. I'm still processing next steps, but I also have some commitments to resolve.  While I cancelled my July 16 Winnipeg-London flight, I also have a return ticket to Canada on August 17 (for a sit that I'm definitely not doing.)  I've decided to go back to England and stay with my cousins. (Of course, that's still suspect behavior: from the tenor of the questions at the UK border, I'm apparently suspected of squatting in their home and using the free National Health and other resources.) I'm gathering documentation about my personal finances and plans. I'm letting my upcoming UK and China hosts know about the issues, and they may cancel my sits, or they may invite me as a guest and send documentation to that effect. I have several return visits scheduled through September 2020, and I think I can manage a border interview for them: "Where did you meet, how are you friends, where do they live, what do they do..." These questions stumped me at Winnipeg, but now I'm better prepared, and if my new friends are willing to risk it, so am I. The immediate future is working itself out, and I am at leisure to ponder the longterm one.  Do I want to get new gigs and expand the community even further?  On what terms do I want to explore this wonderful planet? What can I afford, emotionally, creatively, and financially?

Meanwhile, I'm flying Icelandair to Iceland, staying over 2 nights, and continuing to London on July 17.  And then we shall see.  Will they let me in?

And, that's my story. BL has decided to call me Mata Kari.

The Facebook Conversation

The original post:

Picture of an illegal alien: turned back at the border. After the lecture about lying and the scary consequences thereof (“how old are you?” “Don’t you know you’re supposed to tell the truth?” “Read this paragraph (in a huge lawbook)” “you can be fined and imprisoned”) they then turned nice and gave me Kleenex.  I can return, just not as a house sitter. Apparently Canada considers it to be a job, even though I don’t get paid, and I need papers (which they won’t give me.) But I’m not forced to stay at the airport or sleep on concrete or otherwise get tortured. I’m not a refugee. But I still feel like pond scum, unwanted. My passport has been confiscated for my overnight hotel stay in Winnipeg, and I’m returning to NM to figure out if this is a sign from the gods that I should settle down like a good little girl.

The Stories

LH: Oh, dear. I'm so sorry. This is unfortunately not a new thing. For future reference, when you cross the Canadian border (in either direction), you're always, always going "to visit friends." I was once held up for hours just because I mentioned that my job title back home included the phrase "Volunteer Coordinator". The word "volunteer" is a big red flag. Hugs, friend! 
Me: I said I was visiting friends, and that’s why I got the lecture about lying, and the threats. I didn’t have enough details about my hosts to sustain the lie...and not being a homeowner is suspect also. LH: that's absurd and ad hominem!  
Me: They questioned my finances and employment and housing status and said, “It looks like you have no reason to return (to the States)”
LH: Oh that's a new one on me! Maybe they wouldn't let me in either. :(

JAD: It’s awful! I was given a really hard time at the US border the first time I said I was house-sitting - then I said we were doing it for friends. They called the home-owners who luckily backed up our creds. I now never say we are visiting anywhere to house-sit - at any border. I just say we are staying with friends.
Me: the problem was that I didn’t have enough details about the friends. But its okay...too smoky and if Canada doesn’t want my money, never mind. I wanted to go home anyway.  
JAD: In all the traveling we do, the worst border crossings are US - so so rude - followed by Australia - and I’m Australian!....just don’t know why it’s necessary for any country. Last time I crossed a US border I was hassled because I have a 5 year visa. They asked me why I had that visa. I said because you told me to. They said ‘why did we tell you to?’ .... It really is very discomforting to be hassled at a border - wherever it is. You feel so vulnerable!
Me: exactly. And since I’m doing this to create a global community, it’s counterproductive...at least I have the option to go home. And I think he felt bad in the end....I cry way too easily
BL: let him feel bad. No reason to be a turd about it. Some of our TSA people are just as bad, though I have also had some very courteous and helpful border patrol and TSA agents as well. One experience doesnt paint the whole picture.....My favorite was soldiers patrolling the Frankfurt airport with rifles ( years ago), with flowers stuck in the rifle barrels for decoration. It was Christmas 1986

BBoo:I 'm glad you're safe, despite the horrible treatment. When I passed through Moscow in April the passport control gal was sound asleep with her head on the desk! I just stood there, wondering if I should just walk on through, but I was too unnerved so I kept calling out to her and tapping on the desk until she woke. It was nuts LOL!

JM: We had an almost housesitter from the US who was turned back at the Canadian border and denied entry because of housesitting, etc. I say almost because she was supposed to come to housesit for us but because of that experience in Canada, she didn't want to leave the US for fear that it would happen in Norway too. Sad..... So I don't think it's a sign

The Fallout discussion
LS: So sorry! Not only bad for you but now the people also have no house sitter!
Me: they were beyond kind about it
LS: that’s good. Am still very sorry. Frightening and upsetting!
Me: and expensive. 😱
BL: My question is how much did this cost you, and your house people? I assume you have to eat the travel costs and they either have to cancel their vacation, or PAY a Canadian to do the sit.
Me: Friends are looking in on the cats, and the dog is coming with. They told me not to worry. I am indeed eating travel costs: very expensive flight home, and another back to catch the flight to London. Plus a hotel stay
LS: Shouldn’t the company you are associated with have known this and advised you what was needed? Also let us know when you are safely on your way
Me: they are just a platform for connecting folks. We’re on our own.
DL: It's not a JOB!! DAMMIT
CB: Aw bless.. then you can return again to visit them as friends... shame they will then leave you to have a friendly holiday and just happen to feed their dog or cat while you are there!

The Political discussion:
WB This is what happens now that the "thing" in the White House insults other world leader and acts like a jerk. Canada was friendlier, I think, prior to 2016. I am so so sorry this happened.....
 
BJR I am shocked. So sorry you were the unlucky one to receive this horrible treatment. I can understand how you feel. Granted, I have not been to Canada for years (and then to British Columbia) I am appalled at the way you were treated. 45 and his horrible border policies have corrupted the way Americans are viewed in the world. The whole world is crazy at the moment. ((hugs)) ❤✌
 
BL: This sucks, but I was also waiting for this to happen. Like the pushback from the hotels and other fee-interested parties with the air B&Bs or Uber and the taxicabs, once this became big enough to be on the radar, somebody was going to try to regulate it and get their cut. This is what governments do. I think it is a sign the house sitting days are over.
This is not some confirmation of 45 pissing off the world and they are retaliating (though I'm sure some of that is going on somewhere). Countries always have jealously guarded their borders against foreigners - all the while trying to get the most economic gain they can from them before sending them on their way. It is worse now with terrorist security issues as well as competition for jobs, they want to protect their economy and work force from foreign labor markets - protectionism. We are just late in coming to the game.
Years ago our passports were confiscated in Italy while the landlady had them checked out with the local constabulary.... Also years ago we were given the third degree by the British Virgin Islands, and more recently Canada, to make sure we had enough money on us to return home (i.e. you are welcome to vacation and spend your money for awhile, but then be sure you get home). They also wanted to know the source and amount of our money, in case we were nefarious drug dealers. Trip to Alaska in 2006, through Canadian port, had similar issues - the bus (and occupants) from the cruise ship was pre-checked, and SEALED, to transport us to the terminal. Unfortunately the bus driver stopped and opened the door for some reason, which meant a 45 minute delay while some official had to come and recheck our passports again. Vowed to leave out of Seattle if I ever go to Alaska again.

CL: Passport confiscated, that's serious. Sounds like they're being jerks.
Me: they wanted to make sure I leave after sleeping in my Canadian hotel room. Better than sleeping in the airport, so I didn’t complain. I’ll get it back tomorrow
BL: They were making sure you didn't fade into the countryside and not show up for your court date, like our border captures. Canadians obviously don't believe in Catch and Release policies of the US Border.

BL: Interesting multiple people to and from multiple countries have had trouble when they say they are house sitting, but not when visiting friends. Its obviously not payback for Trumps behavior, something else is afoot (usually financial or security issues). Work visas maybe, if they consider it to be a job?

Next steps:
CB You keep on travelling girl!! We love seeing your photos and posts xxx

VS: Don’t settle ... don’t be a good little girl ... it’s fucking boring. You will figure it out and then, this bullshit stupidity won’t stop you ever again. xo

LRD: Sympathies. I'm sorry for your unfortunate experience, but I bet time will give you perspective to add this to the array of your fascinating experiences. I agree with R- blame Trump. Also, going forward (no reason to let this rain on your parade), tell border control you are "on holiday ". Skip the details. Love and hugs.
Me: then they asked where i was staying....it devolved from there

PC:
Chloe and Serenity are still expecting a visit from their Auntie in September 2020!
Me: Maybe you should write a letter of invitation that I can show to passport control

A private conversation about laws and lying:
I have no idea what any country’s ruling is. I think that any country that thinks that we are ‘taking jobs’ from locals is likely to be tricky. I think that, given our aim to promote a global community, we are well within the bounds of truth to say we are visiting friends. What questions were you asked about it? Perhaps we could ask THS?.....
Me: I was asked how I know them, details like where they work, what they do, names and addresses of course. The minute I said we met through THS, the jig was up of course.
It’s hard. Visa conditions change all the time. I’m thinking that we just say we are tourists, and have hotel info, any hire car bookings, attractions we’ll visit, and we’re staying with friends of friends for a while perhaps, then not sure from there. Have all their contact details at hand. As I said, we never say we are ‘house-sitting’ - either tourists or visiting friends. Never had a problem with that. Although given your experience we’ll be more prepared from now on.
Me: My problem is that the security officer said that not telling the whole truth was lying, and that I could be imprisoned or fined or both
I think perhaps you’re right. The problem was mentioning THS in the first place. If that’s not in the picture, then how can they prove that you are not visiting friends and then planning to travel around? Having said that, I think that house-sitting in Canada is not an option for you going forward. Not that you would feel Like trying again!
Me: I just don’t know what to do about the UK: I am visiting my cousin, but I’m also housesitting. And Norway...I’m visiting family and J&H are friends but....
Perfect reasons to visit. Try not to over-think at the moment. You are - understandably - very upset right now. Please just give yourself time to recover
Me: Yes, I am very traumatized. I hate this, and I’m still blaming Trump
To be honest, we have heard that Canada is receiving a record number of enquiries from Americans wanting to move to Canada. Perhaps they are reacting to that. Whatever has happened it’s so unfair that someone like you gets caught up in it. You have so many friends around the world now. Perhaps you just visit them then take up house-sitting assignments once you’re there. Then you can tell ‘the whole truth’ at border crossings! Like Australia!

Friday, April 5, 2019

Mundanities

I've been back on the road since Feb, and I've written some drafts about housesitting, but I just cannot generate enough interest in my life to write more than my short daily checkins and my longer letters.  If I can't be bothered, why would anyone else be interested?

So, I spent January pulling together the medical and tax information.  Then I went to Florida to celebrate Mom's 90th birthday.  She's awesome and it was great.  Then, off to England for 3 weeks at a Shropshire estate, a week in Wales, and time in London on either side.  I had an exhausting week of travel, leaving at 6 am from London on March 26 and arriving in Edmonton at 5 pm on March 29.  I had one full day in Albuquerque to pick up drugs, deposit my IRA rollover check and get a hair cut.

And now I'm in the wilds of Alberta, living in a log cabin on a lake, walking the dogs, building the fires.  It sounds idyllic, but instead I am lonely.  My contact is either furry or virtual:  both good but not enough.  My work seems small and boring.  If, as Carlo Rovelli says, every day is time travel, then I'm in a loop. Make coffee, feed dogs, play Scrabble, tutor, read, go for a walk, take a picture, write a checkin or a letter, knit, binge-watch Netflix shows, practise piano, practise Norwegian (via Duolingo), wash dishes, go to bed.  Repeat.   As I walk, I write scenes in my head, none of which get typed up.  I do share the photographs I take, but only because I have to connect somehow, and that's the easiest way. I don't edit or process them beyond a little cropping and light fixing.

I think of George Sand, who wrote 30 pages a day for her entire life. I think of Jane Eyre reminiscing contemptuously about her cousin Eliza, who had a rigid routine that sufficed for her;  nothing put her out more than the interruption of that routine, and in the end she enters a convent where things will be done with order and precision.  "The vocation will fit you to a hair," Jane thinks, "much good will it do you."  But, how is Jane's regimented life any more meaningful?  Is it her art that puts her above her cousins?  or her passion, tamped down and controlled though it is?  One sympathizes with St.John, who wants her to put her talents to use, who himself  writhes in the claustrophobia and mundanities of the country parsonage.

As I walked today, I thought about Virginia Woolf and her prescription for the woman writer. I have money and a room of my own, but I still don't have that incandescent mental freedom to write things that are worth reading.  Woolf picks out a "slim volume" of letters and finds the writer to be skilled in fashioning a scene while describing the small details  of her daily life.


But here's the sort of letter I write:
I'm glad things are rosier for you: they are greyer for me. Yesterday it snowed and today it is chilly and cloudy. My only real activity is taking the dogs out for 40-60 minutes. I turn around when Chloe stops pulling, as I don't want to be dragging her back, and it seems that I only have a short window between the pull and the drag.
Yesterday my new glasses arrived. I'm not sure I like them. They are progressive lenses, and I just don't get the hang of finding the right place to look. They also have some sort of a tint to prevent the excessive screen time from straining my eyes, and I'm not sure that's working either. But, since I just got them, I'm going to give them some time. At any rate, the correction is better.
It's been a bit of a trial getting these glasses, since it's all mail order. I'm using a service that E suggested, and I had to measure the PD, and it took longer than expected so I had to arrange to have them mailed here in Canada.
What's PD? I asked, when they said that, due to my high prescription they needed that number. It's Pupillary Distance, of course, they said, and sent me a video describing the process for measuring it. I was in Wales at the time. I got no fewer than 6 different measurements, squinting in the mirror, so then I took a picture of myself with the ruler below my eyes and I got 44 different measurements. I sent the pix to the company and they declined to make a determination, suggesting I see my optometrist. I don't HAVE an optometrist, so I waited until I got to London and had R measure, and she got YET ANOTHER measurement and E got a final measurement of 65, which is what I went with because he seemed absolutely sure about it, and he's ordered glasses online before.
Still, I'm not sure that my problem isn't the PD, rather than the progressive lens.
The number usually ranges from 55-65. While I'm in range, I'd feel more secure with a middle number. I do have a large head, though.....
You can see that my life is not very exciting, if I can obsess over such mundanities.


Mundane, indeed.  I think I prefer the time loop.